As usual, I was the first from our group in the restaurant for breakfast. However, since this is Pamukkale, the resort that is always full, the dining room was full of people. Unlike the other hotel restaurants, this one did not have a table reserved for our group’s breakfast. So, I was faced with a choice—either sit alone at an empty table in a room full of people or invite myself into another group for breakfast. I chose the latter. I found a table with a few Asians and asked if I could join them. They were very gracious. I learned that one person at the table spoke English. She is a freshman studying economics at university in South Korea. She told me she was traveling with her mother and older sister between semesters. Her sister is a fine arts major and will graduate in the spring. She is worried about finding a job then because the economy in South Korea, as in the US, is in a recession. She told me they were traveling for 9 days, beginning their tour in Ankara and ending in Istanbul. It sounded almost as if they were taking our trip but in the reverse order (and for fewer days). So far, Pamukkale has been her favorite site. She said the white cliffs reminded her of "icing on a cupcake." At the end of our conversation, she told me that although she has studied English, she had never carried on a lengthy conversation in English. I told her I was surprised to hear that as she and I had been able to communicate quite well. And trust me, I speak no Korean!
Our first site today was Laodicia. Work at this site has progressed quite rapidly over the last couple of years. The Turkish government, with the help of professors and students from a local university, is handling the archeological work—excavation and restoration—here. Many ruins have been recovered, but re-construction has only recently begun. On site today was a crane. The workmen there were putting up some columns. We watched as one man sanded and smoothed the surfaces of some of the pieces of the columns. Nearby, another workman had climbed a scaffold around a column and was sanding the top piece, readying it for the next piece to be fitted. We watched as another workman joined him on the scaffold and then as the crane operator lifted the next column piece and slowly guided it to the column.
After fitting it on the column, the men on the scaffold began to measure to see if the column was now the same height as the two columns nearby. It was “icing on the cake” to watch the reconstruction work today.
Next we drove near the Taursas mountains to Aphrodisias.
By the time we arrived, the air was clear and the sun was shining brightly. As we walked through this site, we marveled at the temple to Aphrodite—which had been converted to a church (among other things, the Christians built a new door—not facing east),
the pool in the center of the city (much like the reflecting pool on the mall in Washington, D. C.)—unique among the other ancient sites in Turkey,
the large theater (where I heard, for the first time, the incredible acoustics of these theaters—I was sitting up in the seats and could hear the conversations of my classmates on the stage area),
and the stadium—the largest of all the sites in Turkey—(which had hosted chariot races and gladiator fights.)
Lunch was incredible! When we drove up to the rustic building outside of present-day Aphrodisias, a man welcomed us with music he played on his caz (stringed instrument which looks something like a guitar). His colorful bird joined him and he serenaded us as we walked into the restaurant.
Rustic inside as well, the restaurant reminded me of life in the 1800s—lots of wood and farm implements. We were served hot bread with fresh Turkish salsa (reminded me of Kirk’s but not as spicy) and hot pizza-type dishes—one with a tomatoey spread and one with cheeses. We enjoyed the usual cold appetizers as well, including salad, but this salad included different kinds of lettuce including arugula. Of the four choices offered for an entrée, I chose the mushrooms with cheese. I chose—wisely. The mushrooms were delicious.
As usual, I visited the WC (water closet) after lunch. What a treat! It was open, like a courtyard with plants in the middle and music was playing!
We drove back out of the mountains we had crossed, south and into some more mountains. Along the way, we observed two beautiful and complete rainbows. It has been such a long time since I have seen a rainbow, it was so nice to see two complete ones today! Yes, everything about today has been “icing on the cake.”
Check out more pictures from today's part of my trip to Turkey.
Monday, February 1, 2010
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